3-week Camper Adventure in Sardinia
Secluded Beaches & Camping Spots
Full Itinerary with Personal Tips
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The Ultimate Sardinia Camper Road Trip Guide
Follow Pascal & Irina’s Camper Journey
Sardinia — an island of turquoise waters, untouched beaches and rugged mountain landscapes, was the dream destination for Pascal and Irina’s three-week adventure in their beloved T3 VW camper van. Armed with a sense of spontaneity and the promise of off-season serenity, they set out to circle the island counterclockwise, uncovering hidden gems, tackling camper-specific challenges, and indulging in Sardinian culture along the way.
This is their story — and your guide — to the ultimate Sardinia camper road trip.
Why Sardinia? The Camper’s Paradise
For Pascal and Irina, Sardinia’s allure lay in its diversity: pristine coastlines, mountainous backdrops and a rich cultural tapestry. Their first visit in 2023 had already revealed Sardinia’s camper-friendly nature, with unspoiled beaches and turquoise waters. It was the perfect match for their off-season ambitions.
Sardinia offers ample opportunities for camper travelers: quiet roads, idyllic camping spots and the freedom to explore at your own pace. The off-season — late September to November — is particularly rewarding, with fewer crowds, opportunities for discreet wild camping and lower prices. Even better, the mild weather ensures that most outdoor activities remain enjoyable. One of the biggest advantages of traveling Sardinia by camper is the flexibility it offers. While many travelers stick to pre-booked accommodations, Pascal and Irina embraced spontaneity, adjusting their plans based on weather conditions and local recommendations.
Week 1: Northern Sardinia’s Coastal Beauty
Route: Golfo Aranci → La Maddalena → Castelsardo → Alghero
Pascal and Irina’s journey begins in Golfo Aranci, where their ferry from Livorno docks early in the morning. “Take the overnight ferry with a cabin — it’s worth it,” they advise. After arriving, they drive inland to San Pantaleo, a charming little village known for its artistic vibe and rustic charm. They stop for a morning coffee at Café Nina, a local favorite with a cozy, authentic atmosphere.
From San Pantaleo, they make their way toward the stunning Costa Smeralda beaches, visiting Spiaggia La Celvia, Spiaggia di Capriccioli and Spiaggia del Romazzino. To explore the area, they park and walk down to the beaches, enjoying the tranquility of the off-season. While some beach clubs and restaurants are already closed for the season, the weather is perfect for some beach days to start their vacation. They explore wild camping spots near the coast, which is generally tolerated in the off-season but known to be strictly controlled during peak summer months.
As they continue north, they decide to take the ferry from Palau to La Maddalena, a choice influenced by the beautiful weather and the chance to experience some of the best beaches Sardinia has to offer. Before boarding the ferry, they enjoy a delicious meal at Ristorante O’Belau, a cozy place known for its fresh seafood and welcoming atmosphere. After their time in La Maddalena, Pascal and Irina return to the mainland and head west toward Castelsardo. The medieval town, perched dramatically on the cliffs, greets them with breathtaking views and charming cobblestone streets. They wander through the historic center, explore Castello dei Doria and enjoy a classic Sardinian dinner featuring fregola with seafood and a glass of Vermentino, the most popular local white wine.
From Castelsardo, they continue south toward Alghero. Arriving there, they spend the next day exploring the old town, admiring its Catalan-influenced architecture and watching the sunset from Torre de l’Esperó Reial. They also venture into the surrounding Regional Park of Porto Conte, where they embark on a scenic trek to Grotta di Nettuno, one of Sardinia’s most famous sea caves. Nearby, they also explore Nuraghe Palmavera, a well-preserved Nuragic archaeological site offering a glimpse into Sardinia’s ancient past.
Camper Spot: Near Regional Park Porto Conte, an ideal base for exploring Alghero and enjoying the natural beauty of the park.
Highlight: Tenute Dettori, a renowned natural and biodynamic winery located in Sennori. Here, they participate in a wine tasting, learning about the region’s viticulture and sampling some of the best local wines.
Week 2: Ancient History & Sardinia’s Wild Southwest
Route: Bosa → S’Archittu → Oristano → Iglesias → Sant’Antioco → Cagliari
Leaving Alghero, Pascal and Irina head toward Bosa, taking the breathtaking coastal road that winds along the cliffs. On the way, we meet them at Cala Cumpoltitu, a hidden cove nestled below the road. The weather is perfect for a swim, so we enjoy the turquoise waters before sharing a picnic lunch with fresh paninis from a local supermarket.
After lunch, we all head to Bosa, where we spend the afternoon wandering through the town’s colorful streets, visiting Castello Malaspina and enjoying a relaxed evening by the river. There, we meet friends from Cagliari who went for a kayak tour on the Temo River! The tour leads you along the city walls and you can take a look at the castle and the Cathedral of San Pietro, the oldest Romanesque-style church in Sardinia.
Camper Spot: Area Sosta Camper di S'Abba Druche, a tranquil camper parking spot right by the sea. In high season, there’s also a restaurant that is rumored to serve very good local sea food and pizza.
Highlight: If you could bathe on the moon, it would probably be like at Cane Malu, Bosa’s natural swimming pool. A magical place, to the point of seeming unreal and yet, there is an explanation as to why this futuristic landscape looks the way it does.
Approximately 1 hour south from Bosa, we find a small small town called S’Archittu. There is little walk towards a natural bridge (Arco) and several restaurants and terraces overlooking the sea. You can also swim and even jump into the water. Certainly worth a visit also for snorkeling. Here we say goodbye to Pascal and Irina, as they make their way to Capo San Marco, a rugged coastal area near Tharros, an ancient Nuragic settlement dating back over 2,000 years. Walking among the ruins.
After they explore Oristano and its surroundings, visiting Is Arutas Beach with its famous quartz sand, Insediamento Nuragico di Tharros and the famous Nuraghe Su Nuraxi — an impressive Nuraghe complex and the only World Heritage Site on the island, near Barumini — before heading toward Iglesias. Next, they drive along the southwestern coast toward Porto Flavia, a striking mining port carved into the cliffs. The cliffs and sea views here are some of the most dramatic of the entire trip. Nearby, they take a detour to Spiaggia di Cala Domestica, a secluded cove with golden sands and crystal-clear water, perfect for a midday swim.
Their final stop of Week 2 is Cagliari, Sardinia’s vibrant capital. They explore Castello, the city’s ancient hilltop district, where narrow alleyways and grand piazzas revealed centuries of history. A visit to Mercato di San Benedetto, one of Italy’s largest covered markets, allows them to stock up on local delicacies like bottarga (cured fish roe) and fresh pecorino cheese. They end their evening with a sunset aperitivo at La Paillote, where they reflected on their trip so far.
Camper Spot: For convenience, they parked at Camper Cagliari Park, a very simple parking spot, but offering easy access to Cagliari’s center and old town.
Highlight: During their drive, they discovered Museo all'aperto Pinuccio Sciola in San Sperate, an open-air museum filled with massive limestone sculptures that produce eerie, melodic tones when struck. It was one of the most unexpected yet fascinating stops of the trip.
Week 3: The Rugged East & Relaxing Beaches
Route: Villasimius → Costa Rei → Baunei → Golfo Aranci
The final week of Pascal and Irina’s journey took them to the stunning southeastern coast of Sardinia, starting in Villasimius. Known for its pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters, Villasimius was the perfect place to unwind. They spent their first day relaxing at Spiaggia di Porto Giunco, a beach famous for its soft white sand and shallow turquoise waters. The nearby Laguna di Notteri added an extra layer of magic with its pink-hued flamingos wading through the water.
Driving north along the Costa Rei, they take their time meandering along the coastal road, stopping at small, secluded beaches along the way. The off-season serenity allows them to have entire stretches of sand to themselves, where they swim in the crystal-clear waters, cook simple but delicious meals in their camper and relax with uninterrupted views of the sea. In the evenings, they enjoy the sunset from their van, listening to the waves and savoring the peaceful solitude of the Sardinian coastline. Here, they discover a series of hidden gems. Their favorite was Punta Molentis, a small crescent-shaped beach framed by dramatic granite rocks. The snorkeling here was exceptional, with vibrant fish darting among underwater rock formations. They also visited Spiaggia delle Dune, where the rolling sand dunes offered a unique landscape to explore.
Continuing into Baunei, a region known for its dramatic cliffs and breathtaking landscapes, Pascal and Irina set their sights on an incredible hike. They park their camper for the night at Pedra Longa, a stunning coastal rock formation with panoramic sea views.
Camper Spot: The parking spot at Pedra Longa is not official, but one of the most scenic in Sardinia, offering breathtaking sunset views and direct access to hiking trails.
Highlight: The hike from Pedra Longa to Cala Fenile, a hidden and peaceful beach tucked away along the coastline. The trail winds along the cliffs, offering spectacular views of the sea below. The hike is moderate in difficulty, taking around 1.5 to 2 hours each way, but rewards hikers with a secluded beach perfect for swimming and relaxing.
After their days of adventure in Baunei, they begin their journey back north, retracing parts of their route and enjoying one last scenic drive through Sardinia’s diverse landscapes. Their final destination is Golfo Aranci, where they reflect on the past three weeks of exploration. Before boarding their ferry, they take one last swim in the turquoise waters and enjoy a final sunset over the island’s rugged coastline, a perfect farewell to an unforgettable camper journey.
Practical Tips for Camper Travelers in Sardinia
Wild Camping
In Sardinia, wild camping is tolerated in the off-season but comes with restrictions. Avoid setting up chairs or tables outside the camper to maintain a low profile and respect local regulations.
Budget Smartly
While off-season ferry tickets can be as low as €120 (including a cabin), campsite fees vary greatly. Plan for €50–€70 per day to cover fuel, food and accommodations comfortably.
Off-Season
Traveling between April and June or late September and November means fewer crowds, lower prices and more availability at campsites.
Ferry Travel
Book overnight ferries to maximize rest and avoid travel fatigue. Cabins with windows are worth the extra cost for added comfort and privacy.
Local Cuisine Must-Trys
Don’t leave Sardinia without sampling porceddu (roast suckling pig), seadas, and fresh seafood like bottarga. Markets like Mercato di San Benedetto in Cagliari are ideal for stocking up on local delicacies.
Essential Apps
Download Park4Night to discover camper spots and reviews. It’s a valuable tool for finding hidden gems and understanding local amenities.
Whether you’re seeking tranquility, adventure or a bit of both, Sardinia delivers. With its camper-friendly setup, the island welcomes road trippers with open arms and leaves them with unforgettable memories. If you’ve been dreaming of a road trip that combines stunning landscapes, cultural heritage and the freedom of the open road, Sardinia should be at the top of your list. There’s no better way to experience the island than through the lens of a camper van journey.
